Back at Camp
- By Brendan Mason
- Published 11/15/2003
- Tackle
- Unrated
Brendan Mason
Brendan Mason is a Canadian born angler who now lives in the outer suburbs of Seattle. Brendan has fished all of his life and started a passion for fly in British Columbia where he grew up. His father a search and rescue expert and his mother a teacher Brendan has the brains and skills to both out think and survive longer than the average Joe Blow. Brendan has fished extensively for the trout and salmonoids but in recent years has attacked the saltwater with gusto. His travels have taken him to Australia, Mexico, Argentina and beyond. Brendan also has the distinction of catching a 600 lb Mako on fly while fishing San Diego in 2006.
A practical guide to understanding and caring for your non-fishing gear
Fishermen are gearheads, plain and simple. Being able to understand how your gear functions and how to properly take care of it helps to maximize your efficiency and enjoyment. There is no end of articles about caring for your rods, reels, lines, flies, and other fishing gear so I decided to share some information on a few of the other essential items the adventurous angler relies on.
Tents
If you’re like me, this is your weekend home away from home. A good tent is a serious investment and care should be taken to maximize the life of your investment.
When selecting a site to place your tent, make sure it is not in a spot where water will collect. Clear the ground of any rocks, sticks, or other sharp objects that can damage the tent floor. A groundsheet is recommended for additional protection.
Before entering the tent, remove your shoes and be careful not to place anything on the floor that could cause a puncture.
When your adventure comes to an end and it is time to break camp, hold your tent upside down with the door open and shake any debris out before packing it up. If the tent is wet or damp, even just a little, be sure to allow it to thoroughly air dry as soon as possible. Mildew will leave permanent stains, rot the fabric, and can destroy the waterproof coating on rainflys.
Eventually your tent will require cleaning. NEVER place your tent in a washing machine or dryer! Tents should only be hand washed and air-dried. The easiest way to do this is to set up the tent in a grassy area. With a hose, wet down the entire tent. Use a sponge and soapy water to clean any dirt off the fabric. A non-detergent soap should be used, as regular detergents will leave residues that inhibit the breathability of the fabric and actually attracts water. A clean tent will breathe better, helping to prevent condensation on the inside fabric. Applying a waterproofing product to the uncoated outer side of the rainfly is also highly recommended.
Sleeping Bags
A quality sleeping bag should last for years, if not decades, when cared for properly. Bags fall into two main categories; synthetic and down. The most important rules to follow with sleeping bags are; 1) Keep it clean! and 2) Keep it dry!
Synthetic sleeping bags have the advantages of durability and ease of care. Their downfalls are bulk and weight. They should be cleaned only in a commercial front-loading machine. Home washing machines will damage or destroy a bag. Use a mild non-detergent soap to clean the bag without leaving residues. To dry, place the bag in the dryer on low to medium heat.
Down sleeping bags are slightly more fragile. Despite this, most campers swear by them. The combination of low weight, low bulk, and high warmth can’t be beat by anything man-made. Cleaning procedures are the same as for synthetic bags, but it’s a good idea to throw 2 or 3 clean tennis balls in the dryer with the bag. This will help maintain the loft of the down as it dries, eliminating clumps of down that reduce the effective insulation of the bag.
Make sure the bag is completely dry (no clumps) before storing.
There are commercial products available specifically for cleaning and waterproofing down and synthetic sleeping bags. Waterproofing your bag is a recommended step, despite the general conception that your tent will keep your bag dry. By applying a wash-in waterproofing treatment, the breathability of the bag will be increased. Breathability is important to keep you dry and warm inside the bag, just like breathable waders and outerwear when you’re on the water. Condensation in the insulation, be it synthetic or down, will reduce the breathability, loft, and warmth of the bag, so it is critical to keep the bag dry at all times.
Only pack your bag in the stuff sack while you’re in the field. When not in use, sleeping bags should be placed in a large storage bag, hung vertically in a closet, or laid flat. This prevents the insulation from being compressed and losing its loft during downtime.
Sleeping Pads
Many people think of sleeping pads as a luxury item. However, their value as part of your overall system should not be downplayed. When you lay in your sleeping bag, the insulation between you and the ground is compressed and rendered nearly useless. A sleeping pad serves to fill this void, providing not only comfort from the hard ground, but also insulation from the cold.
Inflatable pads should be stored flat, with the valve open. This allows the insulating foam to maintain its shape and for the pad to breathe. Condensation of trapped moisture inside the pad can lead to premature wear, as the pad literally rots from the inside.
Clean your pad occasionally with warm, soapy water and a sponge. Dirt that gets trapped in the outer fabric will cause wear and can result in leaks.
Stoves & Lanterns
At times, a campfire isn’t a feasible means of heat and light. You may be in a desert or alpine location with nothing to burn, or high forest fire danger may cause a ban to be imposed. Anyone who has spent a cold night without a source of heat to cook or light to see knows the importance of a functional stove and lantern. Because stoves and lanterns operate in a similar manner, I will discuss them together.
Propane and LP Canister models are the most failsafe and easy to use. My standard rule of gear applies here. You should know it by now; Keep it clean! Spilled food in the burners is the most common cause of failure in propane and canister stoves.
Liquid fuel stoves and lanterns can be a bit more finicky. These devices operate using a tube (commonly referred to as a generator) that, when heated, causes liquid fuel within the tube to vaporize. Problems can arise if this tube becomes clogged, or if it develops a leak that allows excess air to enter the fuel delivery system. Always filter liquid fuel when filling the fuel tank or bottle. Tiny particles in the fuel can accumulate and cause decreased performance or even total failure. If you are planning to store your stove or lantern for a period of time, you should drain the tank before doing so. Rust, caused by trace amounts of water in the fuel, and varnish from the fuel itself can lead to further clogging. Always test your equipment after a long period of storage before taking it into the field. It’s always easier to fix a problem in the comfort of your own home than in the remote areas where big fish like to hang out!
In Summary
Following the guidelines in this article will help you maximize the performance and longevity of the gear you hold dear to your heart. Keep in mind that these are guidelines only, and you should always follow the manufacturers suggested practices.
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Fishermen are gearheads, plain and simple. Being able to understand how your gear functions and how to properly take care of it helps to maximize your efficiency and enjoyment. There is no end of articles about caring for your rods, reels, lines, flies, and other fishing gear so I decided to share some information on a few of the other essential items the adventurous angler relies on.
Tents
If you’re like me, this is your weekend home away from home. A good tent is a serious investment and care should be taken to maximize the life of your investment.
When selecting a site to place your tent, make sure it is not in a spot where water will collect. Clear the ground of any rocks, sticks, or other sharp objects that can damage the tent floor. A groundsheet is recommended for additional protection.
Before entering the tent, remove your shoes and be careful not to place anything on the floor that could cause a puncture.
When your adventure comes to an end and it is time to break camp, hold your tent upside down with the door open and shake any debris out before packing it up. If the tent is wet or damp, even just a little, be sure to allow it to thoroughly air dry as soon as possible. Mildew will leave permanent stains, rot the fabric, and can destroy the waterproof coating on rainflys.
Eventually your tent will require cleaning. NEVER place your tent in a washing machine or dryer! Tents should only be hand washed and air-dried. The easiest way to do this is to set up the tent in a grassy area. With a hose, wet down the entire tent. Use a sponge and soapy water to clean any dirt off the fabric. A non-detergent soap should be used, as regular detergents will leave residues that inhibit the breathability of the fabric and actually attracts water. A clean tent will breathe better, helping to prevent condensation on the inside fabric. Applying a waterproofing product to the uncoated outer side of the rainfly is also highly recommended.
Sleeping Bags
A quality sleeping bag should last for years, if not decades, when cared for properly. Bags fall into two main categories; synthetic and down. The most important rules to follow with sleeping bags are; 1) Keep it clean! and 2) Keep it dry!
Synthetic sleeping bags have the advantages of durability and ease of care. Their downfalls are bulk and weight. They should be cleaned only in a commercial front-loading machine. Home washing machines will damage or destroy a bag. Use a mild non-detergent soap to clean the bag without leaving residues. To dry, place the bag in the dryer on low to medium heat.
Down sleeping bags are slightly more fragile. Despite this, most campers swear by them. The combination of low weight, low bulk, and high warmth can’t be beat by anything man-made. Cleaning procedures are the same as for synthetic bags, but it’s a good idea to throw 2 or 3 clean tennis balls in the dryer with the bag. This will help maintain the loft of the down as it dries, eliminating clumps of down that reduce the effective insulation of the bag.
There are commercial products available specifically for cleaning and waterproofing down and synthetic sleeping bags. Waterproofing your bag is a recommended step, despite the general conception that your tent will keep your bag dry. By applying a wash-in waterproofing treatment, the breathability of the bag will be increased. Breathability is important to keep you dry and warm inside the bag, just like breathable waders and outerwear when you’re on the water. Condensation in the insulation, be it synthetic or down, will reduce the breathability, loft, and warmth of the bag, so it is critical to keep the bag dry at all times.
Only pack your bag in the stuff sack while you’re in the field. When not in use, sleeping bags should be placed in a large storage bag, hung vertically in a closet, or laid flat. This prevents the insulation from being compressed and losing its loft during downtime.
Sleeping Pads
Many people think of sleeping pads as a luxury item. However, their value as part of your overall system should not be downplayed. When you lay in your sleeping bag, the insulation between you and the ground is compressed and rendered nearly useless. A sleeping pad serves to fill this void, providing not only comfort from the hard ground, but also insulation from the cold.
Inflatable pads should be stored flat, with the valve open. This allows the insulating foam to maintain its shape and for the pad to breathe. Condensation of trapped moisture inside the pad can lead to premature wear, as the pad literally rots from the inside.
Clean your pad occasionally with warm, soapy water and a sponge. Dirt that gets trapped in the outer fabric will cause wear and can result in leaks.
Stoves & Lanterns
At times, a campfire isn’t a feasible means of heat and light. You may be in a desert or alpine location with nothing to burn, or high forest fire danger may cause a ban to be imposed. Anyone who has spent a cold night without a source of heat to cook or light to see knows the importance of a functional stove and lantern. Because stoves and lanterns operate in a similar manner, I will discuss them together.
Propane and LP Canister models are the most failsafe and easy to use. My standard rule of gear applies here. You should know it by now; Keep it clean! Spilled food in the burners is the most common cause of failure in propane and canister stoves.
Liquid fuel stoves and lanterns can be a bit more finicky. These devices operate using a tube (commonly referred to as a generator) that, when heated, causes liquid fuel within the tube to vaporize. Problems can arise if this tube becomes clogged, or if it develops a leak that allows excess air to enter the fuel delivery system. Always filter liquid fuel when filling the fuel tank or bottle. Tiny particles in the fuel can accumulate and cause decreased performance or even total failure. If you are planning to store your stove or lantern for a period of time, you should drain the tank before doing so. Rust, caused by trace amounts of water in the fuel, and varnish from the fuel itself can lead to further clogging. Always test your equipment after a long period of storage before taking it into the field. It’s always easier to fix a problem in the comfort of your own home than in the remote areas where big fish like to hang out!
In Summary
Following the guidelines in this article will help you maximize the performance and longevity of the gear you hold dear to your heart. Keep in mind that these are guidelines only, and you should always follow the manufacturers suggested practices.
