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From RiverAndReef.com Trip Reports
Only one night back from the bath warm waters in the Sea of Cortez where we fished for its tropical speedsters, sails, roosters and tunas. I now find myself back on the road and traveling towards the chilly salty seas of the Pacific North West chasing the migrating Silver Salmon off Neah Bay. After a near punch up with a road raged maniac whom took time to scare the hell out of a car load of women and kids in the ferry line (I can still hear his wife screaming, "GET BACK IN THE CAR! GET BACK IN THE CAR!"), my mate (and personal road rage attorney) Gill Levy zoomed us along in his zippy little Saab thru the fog encrusted twisted turns of the coastal road. Occasionally breaks in the roadside vegetation gave us glimpses of glassy calm waters tossing up perfect miniature waves on the beaches. With about 5 hours driving under our belt, a ferry ride, a couple of stops for beer food and supplies we found ourselves rocking into the "dry" Village of Neah Bay at around 10 p.m.. With a 6 am kick off we guzzled a couple of Coronas in our small Cape Hotel room and feel asleep with sound of the Olympics Games.
Neah Bay is nestled in behind the headland of Cape Flattery and faces North into the Strait of Juan de Fuca which separates the USA mainland and Canada. Vancouver Island, Canada is visible from Neah Bay and the coastline road SR112 which leads you to this Makah Nation tribal land . International readers may remember Neah Bay when it made the news with the Makah tribe hunting Grey Whales from their traditional canoes. Of course they used some modern day aids such as a 50 caliber gun to finish the job and large support vessel to tow they victim in, however they are to this day the only Native American Tribe with the right to hunt whales in a signed treaty with the government. I remember the morning of May 17th 1999 very well, when turning on the television we were greeted with the images beamed back live from the K5 News helicopter high aloft Neah Bay of a Grey Whale being harpooned by the Makah despite the efforts of the Sea Shepherd Society whom at his stage were hobbled by our own government and its treaty of 1855. Those images and moment will stick with me, no haunt me, just like those when John Lennon was shot, 911 and the Bali Bombing. How I wanted to go to Neah Bay then and there to just understand WHY the Makah people needed to do this to such a great animal but I had also wanted to go there and hunt/fish for some of my own reasons. Before the kill-'em and grill-'em brigade toast me and the Makah Nation roast me let me state that I view the difference between killing of fish and a mammal, in this case a salmon and a whale, very differently. I think that the use of salmon as food is understandable but being traditional food or not for the Makah I find the reasoning of the need to kill whales in this day and age for human consumption absurd. As for the killing of endangered WILD salmon I do not find that any LESS absurd than that of the killing of a endangered Grey Whale. The same goes for endangered WILD Steelhead which return to rivers and water ways of the same stretch of coastline !! Enough said on this subject but I want any readers of this article to be aware of the difference in cultures, views and feelings that could occur on a visit to Neah Bay. More left-wing flyfisherman should also be aware that this headquarters for a great number of party boat fishos looking to catch their limit... Waking up at around 5 am to the sound of our next door neighbor "giving the dog a bone" I headed out on to the front step of our room to see the action. It was bustling with folks down at the docks and the harbor slowly came to life in the rising sun. In the distance and out in the Strait I could see a huge fog bank that obscured the view to the Canadian side. The calls of gulls made constant enough to thoroughly convince you that your at the seaside and near to the fishing put a spring into our step to the dock. Captain Chris Bellows dressed in the uniform of fisherman whom fish cold waters around the world, fishing boots and wet weather overalls greeted us at the ramp and helped us to his 26-ft aluminum custom boat. Here Chris gave us the run down of his vessel and what we should expect in the days venture. Chris a solid healthy individual whom beams enthusiasm is a straight shooter and is quick to assert that this is his world and you are playing in it by his rules. He has a system that works and he deviates little from this track but he still manages to maintain that fisherman's nouse to mix things up when the norm stops working and you need to start thinking. We made our way out of the harbor and past the Art Deco ferry Kalackala and sailed into a nuclear sunrise towards the fishing grounds which Chris promised would be rough. Large tidal movements and currents throw the seas up not far the protection behind Cape Flattery and those whom get seasick or intend on taking small trailerable boats take heed. It is also notoriously foggy up in this territory and we had a near miss with another vessel on this day that gave all and sundry a good scare. The rough water or FAST water is where Chris finds the fish and we always managed hook ups when in the choppy sections. Chris likes to use 7/8 weight rods with full Rio shooting lines (DC SINKING) and a chartreuse Clouser tied on the end of 15lb leader for his Coho fishing.
Chris's system is simple, strip around 50-ft of running line and head into the LMD (line management device) false cast forward to get the head out of the top guide back cast, water haul and shoot your forward cast...simple! Then let it sink for a few seconds then strip the fly back to the boat. The system works great and is perfect for the methodical commando type get in get out sweeps of the fast water. Once out of the productive rough we would strip the line back into the LMD secured the flyline and fly to the rod with a velcro wrap that Chris supplies and run back to another section of water. Turning the boat off once setting another drift and then constantly casting to the waters. Although the fishing seemed to be blind casting at times it turned more visual and seeing salmon slashing on the surface at baitfish was common as was the occasional jumper. It was also common to see fish flashing in and taking swiping misses at the fly. Chris has had success on surface flies and when the occasions arise fishes them.
The days tally was something like Australia 7/ USA 8 bright Saltwater Coho for Gill and myself with most fish being WILD and released boat side in the water. We both whacked a hatchery fish for the table of around 7lbs. What I did find to be the days highlight beside catching fish that were still technically ocean going salmon was the Rockfishing at slack tide. After having worked the waters around the eery sounding DOiNG!! DOiNG!! DOiNG!! DOiNG!! "D2" buoy all morning surrounded by thick fog we soon had calm conditions and sun poking thru the soup at the top of the tide. At this stage the sounder signaled shows of fish over the shallow reef and Chris gave the word to let the flys sink down. And not more than 10 seconds into the sink a solid nibble had the rod buckled over and a fish pulled hard the other end. The rockfish session was fast and furious and Australia led USA in the event most of the way to the Gold Medal however USA come close with a couple of rippers and a "Greeny" to boot. However Australia gave no quarter and raced back into the lead with the give-'em no line technique and then without warning the finish line was reached the tide started to move and the medals were awarded before returning to the stadiums main event.
Chris Bellows saltwater flyfishing charters is one that I highly recommend to those whom like the salt the sea and the salmon. The vessel is reliable very seaworthy and comfortable. Chris knows these waters well and is very proficient in the methods of catching these fish on fly. He also has some interesting options for chasing Blue sharks on fly which is some what a speciality in this area. The rate for the boat per day is $500 dollars and if split between 2 or 3 anglers is reasonable. The distance to Neah Bay from Seattle makes it a two day trip really and I would suggest staying out on the coast somewhere for another night rather than trying to run home after a day on the briny. Driving does require being awake and after a hard days fishing with Chris you will be ready for some shut eye. You can contact Chris via his website http://www.fly-fishing-neahbay.com
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